Introduction
For international travelers visiting Seoul, especially those planning to tour the royal palaces, the Sumunjang (Royal Guard) Changing Ceremony and the Pasu (Gatekeeping) Ceremony are absolute must-see highlights. While many visitors are aware of the main changing ceremony at Gyeongbokgung, most are unfamiliar with the various other reenactments. Furthermore, many travelers miss out on the performances held not only at Gyeongbokgung but also at Deoksugung Palace and Sungnyemun (Namdaemun) Gate.
In today’s post, I will introduce you to the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony at Gyeongbokgung, as well as the Public Training Sessions and the Sunra (Patrol) Ceremony. I am here to help ensure your palace visit isn't just about looking at buildings, but truly experiencing the living history of Korea.
[For more information on Royal Guard Changing Ceremony at Deoksugung Palace, please refer to this post.]
1. Gyeongbokgung Royal Guard Changing Ceremony
The main Sumunjang Changing Ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace takes place twice a day.
- Schedule: 10:00 AM, 2:00 PM
- Duration: Approximately 20 minutes
- Location: Heungnyemun Square
- Description: The ceremony features about 70 royal guards and 15 members of the traditional marching band (Chwitadae). The sequence includes the royal guard’s military salute, a security check of Gwanghwamun Gate, and the formal change of duty.
2. Gwanghwamun Gatekeeping (Pasu) Ceremony
The Gatekeeping Ceremony at Gwanghwamun, the main gate of Gyeongbokgung, is held twice daily.
- Schedule: 11:00 AM, 1:00 PM
- Duration: 10 minutes
- Location: Gwanghwamun Gate
- Description: This starts with the appearance of about 15 gatekeepers and the Chwitadae band. It involves procedures to inspect the weapons and the duty posture of the gatekeepers.
3. Gwanghwamun Duty (Ipjik)
Standing guard at Gwanghwamun Gate is called "Ipjik" duty. The guards rotate during the Changing Ceremony and the Gatekeeping Ceremony to maintain their post throughout the day.
4. Royal Guard Public Training Session
The public training session of the royal guards takes place twice a day.
- Schedule: 09:35 AM, 1:35 PM
- Location: Hyeopsaengmun Gate
- Description: This session offers a rare look at the guards practicing their duty rotations and conducting military drills under the command of the Sumunjang (Chief of the Guard).
5. Sumunjang Patrol (Sunra) Ceremony
In the Joseon Dynasty, the act of soldiers patrolling the streets was called "Sunra." Today's reenactment does not involve an actual patrol of the entire city but is a grand parade featuring the Chief of the Guard, the royal guards, and the Chwitadae band. This ceremony is only available on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays during specific periods.
- Period: March 1st – May 31st / September 1st – November 29th
- Days: Saturdays, Sundays, and Public Holidays
- Time: 3:00 PM
(1) Saturday Route (Inside Gyeongbokgung)
Starting from Geonchunmun Gate, the parade stops for photo sessions at Hyangwonjeong Pavilion and Gyeonghoeru Pavilion, passes through Geonjeongjeon Hall, and exits via Dongjeongmun Gate.
(2) Sunday Route (Outside Gyeongbokgung)
Starting from the Gwanghwamun Woldae (elevated platform), the parade heads toward Insadong. There is a photo session at Buk-Insadong Square, followed by a march through Insadong 4-gil.
- Note: The route may change to stay inside the palace if there are protests or rallies near Gyeongbokgung.
6. Local Recommendations & Expert Itinerary
If your travel schedule allows, I highly recommend visiting on a Sunday. Walking through Insadong while following the Sunra Ceremony allows you to fully enjoy both Gyeongbokgung and the vibrant Insadong district.
Recommended Sunday Itineraries:
Option A: For those who want to rest in the morning:
- 11:00 AM – English Guided Tour (60–90 min)
- 12:30 PM – Photo Session
- 1:00 PM – Gatekeeping (Pasu) Ceremony (10 min)
- 1:35 PM – Public Training Session
- 2:00 PM – Royal Guard Changing Ceremony
- 3:00 PM – Patrol (Sunra) Ceremony
Option B: If you prefer a break and lunch in the middle:
- 09:35 AM – Public Training Session (10 min)
- 10:00 AM – Royal Guard Changing Ceremony (20 min)
- 10:30 AM – Photo Session
- 11:00 AM – English Guided Tour (60–90 min)
- 12:30 PM – Lunch & Rest (Recommendation: Explore Bukchon Hanok Village)
- 3:00 PM – Patrol (Sunra) Ceremony
7. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Is there a fee to watch the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony?
A: No. The ceremony at Heungnyemun Square and Gwanghwamun Gate is free for everyone to watch without entering the palace's paid area.
Q: What happens if it rains or snows on the day of the ceremony?
A: In case of severe weather, the ceremony may be simplified or cancelled. However, during light rain, you can see a unique version where guards wear traditional raincoats and Satgat hats.
Q: Can I take photos with the royal guards?
A: Yes. After the Changing Ceremony and during the Gatekeeping Ceremony, there are designated photo times where you can stand next to the guards for a picture.
Image Source: Royal Palaces and Tombs Center, waytoseoul team