Introduction
While many international visitors to Seoul are familiar with the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony at Gyeongbokgung Palace, the Deoksugung Palace ceremony is often considered the "true" heart of this tradition. Unlike the ceremony at Gyeongbokgung, the event at Deoksugung is managed directly by the Seoul Metropolitan Government, making it more community-focused, interactive, and informative for spectators. Today, I will guide you through everything you need to know about the spectacular Royal Guard Changing Ceremony held at Daehanmun, the main gate of Deoksugung Palace.
1. The Sequence of the Deoksugung Ceremony
The Deoksugung Royal Guard Changing Ceremony is largely divided into three parts: the Changing Ritual (Gyodae-uisik), the Gatekeeping Ritual (Suwi-uisik), and the Patrol Ritual (Sunra-uisik).
- Changing Ritual: This is the formal ceremony where the duty of the Chief Gatekeeper is handed over.
- Gatekeeping Ritual: After the change, the new guards stand watch in front of Daehanmun Gate.
- Patrol Ritual: The outgoing guards, having completed their duty, patrol both the inside and outside of the fortress walls.
2. Detailed Steps of the Changing Ritual
The ritual follows a strict and fascinating protocol:
(1) Arrival of the Patrol (Sunra)
The relief guards, who were patrolling the city, move toward Daehanmun to begin their gatekeeping duty.
(2) Participation of Inspectors
Two officials attend the ceremony from inside Deoksugung to supervise and inspect the change. One official conveys the "Password" (Amgu-eo) granted by the King, while the other carries the palace key box.
(3) Three Drum Beats (Tago)
A drum is struck three times to signal the start of the changing ceremony.
(4) Delivery of Password & Identification
One of the inspectors conveys the password, which changes every hour, to the current Chief Gatekeeper. The two Chiefs then verify each other's identity using the secret password.
(5) Handing Over the Key Box
The box containing the palace keys is formally transferred.
(6) Transfer of the Command Badge (Wijangpae)
The badge signifying the King's command is handed over to the incoming Chief Gatekeeper.
(7) Changing of Posts
The guards formally swap their physical positions.
(8) Conclusion & Start of Patrol
The end of the ceremony is announced, and the relieved team begins their patrol of the city walls.
3. Schedule and Location
- Time: The ceremony is held twice daily at 11:00 AM – 11:30 AM and 2:00 PM – 2:30 PM.
- Closed: Mondays (Palace closed day).
- Summer Break: Typically, there is a break in the schedule during the last week of July and the first week of August.
- August Note: During the peak heat in August, the daytime ceremonies are often replaced by special night-time ceremonies.
- Location: In front of Daehanmun Gate, Deoksugung Palace.
- Cancellation Criteria:
- Temperatures above 33°C (91.4°F) or below -5°C (23°F).
- Safety concerns such as strong winds, heavy rain, fine dust emergency measures, or severe weather warnings.
4. Interactive Experience Programs
One of the best things about Deoksugung is that you can do more than just watch!
- Honorary Chief Gatekeeper Experience: One person per session can experience being the Chief Gatekeeper on a first-come, first-served basis. Online reservation is required in advance.
- Opening Drum (Tago) Experience: One person per session can participate in striking the drum to signal the start of the ritual. Online reservation is required in advance.
- Traditional Costume Experience: This is your chance to try on traditional Korean military uniforms during the ceremony hours. You can apply on-site without a separate reservation. This is open to everyone who applies (not limited to one person).
5. Recommendations from a Seoul Local
For those planning to visit Deoksugung Palace and catch the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony, I highly recommend the following itinerary to make the most of your visit:
- 11:00 AM – 11:30 AM: Watch the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony.
- 11:50 AM – 12:35 PM: Join the Seokjojeon Hall Special Guided Tour.
- 12:35 PM – 1:30 PM: Take photos around the palace grounds.
- 1:30 PM – 2:30 PM: Participate in the Deoksugung Free English Guided Tour.
[You can find more details about free English guided tours for Seoul's royal palaces in this post.]
Today, we explored the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony at Deoksugung Palace. Compared to Gyeongbokgung, this ceremony offers more detail and more opportunities for visitors to get involved.
In my next post, I will return with a guide to the Gatekeeping (Pasu) Ceremony held at Sungnyemun Gate.
6. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q: Can tourists participate in the drum-striking ceremony at Deoksugung?
A: Yes. One visitor per session can strike the drum to open the ceremony, but this requires an online reservation in advance through the official Seoul Metropolitan Government website.
Q: Under what weather conditions is the royal guard ceremony cancelled?
A: The ceremony is cancelled if the temperature exceeds 33°C or falls below -5°C, or during heavy rain, strong winds, and severe fine dust alerts.
Q: Do I need a reservation for the traditional military costume experience?
A: No. The costume experience is open to everyone on-site without a reservation during the ceremony hours at Deoksugung Palace.
Image Source: Seoul Royal Guard, EMK Culture, Seoul Metropolitan Government